Reclaimed Wood Flooring Production Process
Deconstruction and Prep
Our crews disassemble unwanted buildings piece by piece and save as much material as possible. Back at our yard boards are denailed, trimmed, sorted, and stacked. We choose a random mix of wood species and transport them to an Amish kiln for drying.
Kiln drying forces moisture out of the boards, achieving a level that is optimal for milling.
Final Check For Metal
The boards will be checked for nails a final time using a metal detector to ensure there will be no metal in them.
Straight Line Ripping
Boards are straight line ripped to ensure both edges are straight and true. Our craftsman examines each board during this process to determine which surface is most desirable, and how wide a piece (or pieces) can be made from each board.
Our standard widths are 2 1/4”, 3”, 4”, and 5”. This combination has proved to yield the best from our reclaimed material and results in a nicely varied “random” width look in an installed floor. Boards are milled to 3/4" thick with tongue and groove edges and end-matching. Relief grooves are cut on the underside.
Grading and Packing
Deep splits, large knot holes, and other significant defects are cut out. Pieces that are from 8 inches to 7 feet long are bundled in packs.
Skip Planed Flooring
We use “rough sawn” boards, which frequently exhibit saw markings, to create skip planed flooring. Skip planing exploits the unevenness created from “rough” sawing and the process of aging. Our craftsmen adjusts the planer knives to just lightly touch the surface, removing some of the markings, while also exposing some of the rich patina of the aged wood beneath. The process also smooths the board somewhat. Several coats of varnish or other sealer will smooth the surface further.
Center Cut Flooring
Our center cut flooring is made from resawn barn beams. Because the boards are cut from inside the beam, no original surface remains. Boards will have ample character from nail holes, evidence of former insect activity, spalting, etc. Center cut flooring will have a smoother surface than skip planed, and all the natural grains of the mixed wood species will be evident. An excellent rustic alternative for our customers who want something far more unique than a conventional floor, but aren’t quite ready to commit to a skip planed floor.
Install our wood flooring just like you would a traditional wood floor, with nails or staples driven at an angle through the tongues using a pneumatic tool that can be purchased or rented. Install each row using a single width. Avoid repeating patterns. Work from more than one bundle at a time and mix the various wood colors and grains to achieve a random look.
We can supply pre-finished flooring, or the floor can be finished in place after installation.
Tongue & Groove
Watch how our flooring is made in these step-by-step videos.
Skip Planed Flooring vs. Center Cut Flooring
What is End Grain?
When logs are sawn to make beams or lumber, they are cut lengthwise, “with the grain" to obtain the length desired for construction. If you face the end of that beam or board, you’re looking at its “end grain”. What you see are the ends of all the fibers (the grain) that made up the length of the log.
Choosing the Material
Our customers can choose the size of their tiles and specific wood species we may have in stock - or can decide to mix multiple species and tile sizes. Some wood species will have more open grain than others, so each will take stain or sealers differently. Mixing multiple sizes and species will ensure some degree of randomness to the finished floor.
Our standard end grain tiles are 3/4” thick. (Expect some variation that will be adjusted while sanding after installation.) We have a variety of beam sizes that can be sawn for tiles. Currently, 8" x 8" is one of our most common sizes. We also have varying amounts of 6” x 8”, 6” x 6”, 4” x 6”, and so on down to 2”x 4”.
We do not “square" the beams before sawing, so tiles will have natural edges.
Installing end grain flooring shares some similarities to laying ceramic tile. A notched trowel is used to spread glue to adhere the tiles to the subfloor. After the glue cures, the floor is sanded with a drum sander and sawdust is collected. The sawdust is mixed with polyurethane. Pigment or stain can be added if desired, and this mixture is used to grout the tiles. After cleaning excess grout with steel wool and another sanding, the floor is finished with your choice of coatings.
Wood Tiles can be assembled in patterns if desired.
In this instance, the homeowner planned to incorporate
decorative ceramic tiles in some areas. Layout was test
fitted and adjustments were made prior to gluing.
2. Apply Glue with a notched trowel.
3. Work in small sections gradually to make sure
you retain the desired fit.
4. Place tiles on top of glue piecing together small
Can I Install My Own Wood Flooring?
The answer is yes! Even if you don't have any previous experience with DIY or home remodeling projects, installing your own flooring is absolutely
This video includes step by step instructions, tools you will need, and some helpful tricks we learned along the way. For any more questions regarding your own installation or our flooring options,